Goa - India`s beach paradise
By Joanne Lane The hum of a digeridoo reached me even above the din from the Israeli eatery the bargaining for jewellry, incense and handmade items and the party atmosphere in the resident hippy`s BYO tents. It seems no matter where you are in the world it is impossible to mistake the sound of home - even in the hippy Anjuna markets in the south Indian beach state Goa. I headed towards the noise anxious to mix with a compatriot and partake of some home culture. Instead I found a fast talking American hippy with his hand made digeridoos. But the crowd gathered around him were Australians who ironically had never played a digeridoo. And actually the fast talking American was an amiable soul who seemed more interested in letting his parochial crowd experiment with the instruments than making a sale. Funnily enough, this small taste of Australiana seemed to fit into these colourful markets. Three million tourists flock to Goa each year and it`s easy to understand why. Gleaming white washed churches and Portugese style houses dot the state as a physical witness to its former occupiers. There are old forts that guard the coast lines, lush green paddy fields, secluded beaches fringed with palm trees, lively markets and religious carnivals. Some come for the party atmosphere of the northern beaches, but others like myself settle for the more uninhabited splendour of the south. Whatever your preferance, if you want a beach holiday with a difference this summer then look no further than India. It is easy to forget when you are in Goa that it is still part of India. Goa was a former Portugese enclave and Roman Catholicism is still a major religion here so there are far more churches than temples. Literacy is one of the highest in India and it has the third highest GNP so beggars are fewer and pollution is almost non existent, except in the big cities. The locals are relaxed and more liberal than most Indians. Women wear more dresses than saris, interact more freely with men and are entitled to 50 per cent of their husbands estate. However even considering all this, it still is India. You can wear bikinis and shorts but be modest. Avoid nude bathing and try to keep your beach wear to the beach. I chose Benaulim as my destination. It is quieter than the north but still offers a lot in terms of entertainment. The beach is obviously the main attraction and it is easy to spend all day here as restaurants are actually on the sand and you only have to walk a few metres to get breakfast, lunch or dinner. It is wonderful to sit at a table with your feet in the sand, listening to the lap of the waves, or Goan music played over a loudspeaker and enjoying the wonderful local cusine. Seafood of course makes up a large part of the menu (try the kingfish) but unlike most places in India there are also a wide selection of meats including pork, beef, fish and chicken. Hawaii, Pedro`s and Domnick`s are worth visiting. If it is just too much effort to walk the few metres to the restaurant, don`t worry. Local women sell fruit on the beach, will come right over to your towel and even cut up the juicy pineapples and watermelons for you. There are also people from the neighbouring state Karnataka selling jewellry and cloth. But they will leave you alone if you are not interested. Fishing is a big industry and the locals still employ fairly traditional methods. Old wooden fishing boats dot the shores, often painted with Catholic symbols and phrases, and the fishermen are very friendly. They bring in their catch in the early morning so this is a good time to get to the beach. I made a point of helping bring the boats in and many handed out fresh fish for my pains. Friendly locals are also known to invite tourists to wedding feasts - including yours truly. I didn`t get invited to the actual ceremony but I was allowed to attend the celebrations. These start early in the morning - the loud music starts first - and go all day. Fortunately the music stops when it`s time to eat. These are sumptious affairs with pork, beef, chicken, fish, plenty of beer, softdrink, vegetables and rice. Westerners are treated as special guests and are served in a private room. Once you`ve tired of eating and lazing on the beach the easiest way to get around the flat Goan streets is on a bicycle. These cost 30 rupees a day ($1 AUS) but you can bargain the price down if you hire them for longer. The back streets are fascinating to pedal around - small lanes meander through tiny villages where fish have been laid out to dry in the sun, men work on their boats or nets, children play under the palm trees and women work the fields in skirts. Otherwise it`s not far to Colva which has more variety for shopping and restaurants and in January there is a food festival. Margao, the nearest big town, is also close but is like any other Indian town except for the women selling fish by the roadside who hitch their skirts or saris well above their knees - you don`t see that to often in other parts of the country. But you can get your hair cut here, go to the post office or complete any other business. If you pedal south you can catch a ferry across the estuary to Betul. However if you plan to go further to the lovely Palolem beach or to a deserted fort, it is better to hire a scooter or motorbike. These cost about 200 rupees (approx $8 AUS) per day for a scooter and 400 rupees (approx $12 AUS) for an Enfield. Most places do not require a license but may watch you test drive the vehicles. So sit back, let your hair out, and zoom around - just look out for wild pigs and buffalo that tend to run out on the road without warning. There are a network of buses that service most Goan towns if you want to try another means of transport. These are an experience - hopelessly overcrowded with loud music. The money collector pushes his way through the bus or jumps out to collect it as people disembark. Most buses do not have their destinations marked so you will have to listen to the same man calling it out as the bus drives past. Once you are outside a town you will have the bus pretty much to yourself. If all this activity sounds like too much, just head back to the beach, seat yourself within easy reach of food, put your feet in the sand and let Goa work its magic. OTHER THINGS TO DO
On Wednesdays a day trip to the Anjuna markets is a must. These markets have become famous for their colour and the people they attract - seers, hippys, monks, expatriates. But unfortunately the prices have inflated along with its popularity. The hippy`s particularly can overprice their goods and won`t bargain. There is a great beer tent with a collection of cans from around the world. Look carefully and you`ll find XXXX and Vic bitter. There is also a wide selection of international food and goods to browse through. Old Goa is a days trip from Benaulim and contains many architectural remnants of its former Portugese occupation. There is a cluster of churches and cathedrals built back in the 16th century and once every ten years the corpse of Goa`s patron saint, Francis Xavier, is brought out for pilgrims to view. The next exposition is in November 2004. Kerala, India`s most southern state is another attractive beach holiday destination. It is not as secluded or quaint as Goa and the main beach front in Kovalam can be touristy. But there are backwater tours and lots of good food. HOW TO GET THERE
There is an international airport near Panaji, the main bus centre in the state. India`s domestic airlines also operate out of here. Alternatively trains link Goa from Bombay, Delhi, Bangalore and other centres. There is a train station at Margao, on the coast, but you may be deposited out at Londa. Buses and jeeps will bring you to the coast but take several hours. Bargain hard for the jeeps. Boats also travel between Goa and Bombay. WHERE TO STAY
Most hotels in Goa are cheap and clean. In the smaller towns they are mostly run by families who will chat and invite you in for tea. Most cost about 100 rupees (Aus $3-4) per night for a double room. In Benaulim there is a fantastic family run guesthouse above a bakery opposite the Royal Goan hotel. The bakery opens early in the morning and the warm rolls make a great breakfast. If you want something more up market there is a five star hotel called the Royal Goan in Benaulim - they have two branches. The accomodation has hot water, attached baths, TVs and access to resort facilities like a gymnasium, pool, child entertainment and restaurant. However it is worth noting that hotels with a pool are a huge drain on the surrounding water supply. And the ocean is closeby and may be a better alternative anyway. WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit is between December and February - the Indian winter. Usually after the new year the crowds die down and you can still enjoy warm weather before it gets too hot. |
